Life as a Movie

“This whole year, we are living in movie,” says Samu with a dejected look. Initially I thought the 30-year-old receptionist meant the unfolding political upheaval in Egypt is as dramatic as a movie, but on probing further, I learn that the statement is an expression of disillusionment.

Since the popular uprising in January this year that eventually brought an end to president Hosni Mubarak’s 30-year rule in Egypt, a series of demonstrations, marches, and civil disobedient movements have continued to plague the country, especially in its capital Cairo.

At times, the protests ended in bloody clashes between the demonstrators and the military, which takes over the helm of the country until an elected government is formed (scheduled to be mid-2012). The political instability has also disrupted economy and scaring away foreign investors and visitors, adding pressure to the livelihood of the people.

“Nothing has changed. Those in power are still the people close to Mubarak and the previous government. They are all acting, they say they will listen to the people, they arrest some policemen for hurting the people, they put Mubarak on trial, but all these are lies, not real, like movie,” Samu unleashes a barrage of frustrations, trigger by a photo I showed him.

I have taken a picture of graffiti on a block of building near Tahrir Square in Downtown Cairo, of two portraits with huge “Wanted” written beneath them and a bunch of Arabic scripts next to it. I have asked Samu’s help for translation, and it turns out that the portraits are of one policeman who had opened fire at demonstrators in November, when his act was captured on film, activists launched a man hunt on the internet, eventually exposing the identity (including name, rank, and even home address) of the officers, and led to public outcry for justice.

The “wanted” message displaying the officer’s personal details has made its round not only online, but also appearing as graffiti on many walls around the city. Eventually, the officer was arrested for investigation for blinding protestors, but Samu doubted if there would be fair prosecution.

Samu is not alone in his distrust, I have only landed in Cairo for three days, yet I have been repeated told by locals that as long as the military junta, headed by Mohamad Hussein Tantawi, is still incharged, no real change would come, so the people like Samu will continue to throng the Tahrir Square day after day to demonstrate, demanding for a fair and just system.

But not all residents of Cairo are fond of the prolong mass uprising, which has resulted in political and economic stalemate. On our way to the demonstration scene in Tahrir Square today, my sister and I have been repeatedly “blocked” by not policemen but touts trying to lure whatever remain of tourist arrival to their shops.

“Where are you going? Don’t go that way, it’s dangerous, today is Friday, there’s a big demonstration. Why don’t I show you the safe route?” quite a few men trying to appear helpful, and by the way, along those “safe routes”, so happen there would be where their shops located.

One hotel situated right in front of the Tahrir Square is so short of business of late, that the operator is looking for alternative income. My sister and I have wanted to find a higher point that offers a view overlooking the square, so we could take picture showing the immense crowds. We survey the surrounding and decide to climb to the top of a building, but the staircase ended at the door step of Akwana Inn.

With cameras hanging down our necks, we walk into the inn, but before we could finish telling the operator our intention, he simply replies: “Photo fee, 100 Egytian Pound (RM50 / 16.60USD).” After we have negotiated to half the price, he lead us to a room with balcony, and inside the room, a group of Egyptian TV crew have already set up their equipment there.

“Tantawi (military junta head), Tantawi, step down, step down!” , the crowds beneath chant loudly in unison, “shame to the military who assault women, our girl has more honour, the one exposed naked is the military!”, the demonstrators roar and the camera on the balcony is rolling.

“We are doing hourly live coverage for an Iranian satelite channel,” says one crew member, adding they have used the inn as a shooting point regularly. Ask if they expect any “incident” to happen today, such as fatal clashes as happened last week, they reply “unlikely”. They repeated a line that some locals have told us, that clashes between military and demonstrators usually won’t happen in broad day light, and not on a Friday right after the Muslim major weekly prayer, as the military tries to avoid direct confrontation and risk angering the public further.

Apparently, skermishes normally take place in late night or wee hours of the morning when the size of protestors have dwindled to insignificance…….but why do I remember the picture of a veiled woman (now famously known as the blue bra girl) being assaulted and stripped to half naked by arm personnel was taken in daylight?

Today’s demonstration is indeed peaceful, at least by around 4pm when my sister and I left the square, no untoward incident has taken place. I even detected a slight carnival-like mood at the square, as mobile vendors holding bright red love-shape balloons and pink cotton candy weave in and out of the crowds, and street food vendors busy serving hungry demonstrators.

There is no sign that this will be the last mass gathering this year (just one week away from new year), though some locals are feeling lethargic from what seems like a never ending revolution, but change is indeed happening (albeit it may not be at a desired pace), at least Egyptian has won themselves a new election system, and cornered the authority into having some reservation in confronting the masses with harsh crack down, and the Tahrir (means liberation) Square belongs to the people. The camera is still rolling, and the drama is still unfolding……